Phuket's Laid-Back Cousin, Khao Lak
Thoughts on the end of one year and the start of another with a look at Khao Lak, Thailand, a more mellow alternative to Phuket.
I wanted to start off 2025 with a poll. Do you plan to travel more or less this year? Where do you plan to travel? Send me a message, or leave a comment- I’m genuinely curious.
We traveled a lot in 2024, including a few big “bucket list” (I hate that term, but will use it anyways) trips. Since 2024 was so busy, I have a feeling 2025 will be filled with less travel, but still lots, don’t worry!
We already have a few trips to Europe booked for the year. I’m a huge fan of the ballet and with two dates to see the Paris Opera Ballet secured we have planned two different trips around those evenings in Paris which will include first time visits to Portugal, Bruges, Belgium and a return to Stockholm.
Interesting finds
The internet is littered with the usual “places you must travel to in 2025” lists. This BBC article lists the top travel trends for 2025 and what stood out to me was the greater role AI will have in our travels. I’m used to TripAdvisor already offering an AI summary of reviews, how will AI affect trip planning? Have a read here.
Looking back on 2024 trips… we took a brief trip to Norway this past summer and are dying to go back (unfortunately it’s not a very budget friendly destination) and Brent at the Brent and Michael Are Going Places Substack had some great thoughts on this almost too perfect destination:
I recently listened to this NYT Interview with Rick Steves. Steves’ approach to travel, along with his guide books and television series have always been an inspiration to me. At one point Steves mentions how there are “tourists, travelers and pilgrims”, I think we all hope to be travelers and not tourists but it’s important to acknowledge that we sometimes do travel just to be tourists, everyone needs a self-indulgent, isolated beach resort vacation at some point, even to just experience it. I hope that here, at this newsletter, we can all strive to be better travelers, leaving each destination with a better understanding of just how similar all of us around the world are and appreciative of the differences we have. We travel to seek knowledge and to learn and in that process ultimately learn more about ourselves. You can watch the interview here.
Souvenirs
Stepping out into the winter weather in NYC I’m reminded of all the places I’ve traveled to. Never one to shop much while traveling, I hope to only acquire things that are useful or bring back memories. Warm alpaca gloves from Patagonia, a baby alpaca sweater from the Peruvian Andes and a cashmere beanie (or toque for you Canadians) from the Nepalese Himalayas have been useful today. My partner is the one who loves to shop on every trip and has to coax me to bring home a souvenir but months or years after our travels I’m grateful for the few items I have returned with. As I take my typical Saturday afternoon walk around Prospect Park I’m flooded with memories today of high altitude treks and wind swept landscapes. Appreciating and enjoying the moment is one of the great joys of travel but so are the memories that stay with you for life. What souvenirs are the most memorable to you?
Khao Lak, Phuket’s laid-back cousin
I am not much of a repeat traveler, just as I am not much of a repeat cook. To me there are simply too many destinations to discover as there are recipes. Broadly though, two countries my partner and I seem to keep returning to are Thailand and Italy. (My husband sometimes obnoxiously says: “We go to Italy every year,” when surrounded by uppity NYers).
We finished 2024 with a quick trip to Thailand- quick being about 8 days. I’m certainly no advocated or expert on using airline miles but I try my best and thanks to the AAdvantage program, and a seat sale from Japan Airlines (highly recommend) we could cover our flights, how could we say no?
A few nights in Bangkok were essential for logistical reasons (and some gemstone shopping for my husband) but we chose to return to a location we discovered the previous year- Khao Lak.
Sitting just north of the inundated island of Phuket, Khao Lak offers a comparatively chill environment to the hustle and bustle of its popular neighbor to the south.
To get to Khao Lak you simply need to fly to Phuket International Airport and then arrange an approximately one hour ground transfer from there (all hotels offer some sort of paid service). There are frequent flights to Phuket from Bangkok as well as international flights on major carriers.
What I love about Khao Lak is that there are all the Thai vacation staples available (massage, tailors, cheap cocktail bars- whether you agree with all that or not) without the crowds. Over our few years of visiting we have found the clientel to be mostly European, leaning heavily to German and French tourists. More and more Russians are starting to drift up from their vacations in Phuket but seem to be staying at different resorts. You won’t find the party crowd here either, the vibe is relaxed- perfect for us.
There is one main strip of shops, restaurants and bars etc. and it’s all walkable/manageable to see in an hour but at the same time there is enough selection that you won’t feel at a loss for options. Our most recent hotel offered to shuttle us to and from this main street but it was hardly necessary given the short walk. You can get a 300 baht Thai massage, tailored suits made and 120 baht cocktail bars are in abdundance. Street mojito carts were all the rage this past year. There are a surprising number of decent restaurants given the size of Khao Lak. Our favorites were P’Ann, flooded with neon lights, sweltering hot and frequented by locals. The food was authentic, fresh and service friendly. Another favorite was 835 Streetfood Restaurant. Hidden behind the main shops this open air restaurant had four Thai grandmothers cooking in their open-air kitchen. Fresh seafood is on display should you wish to pick your catch. If you’re seeking something catering more to western aesthetics Mojo Thai Restaurant had all the usuals you’d be looking for with attentive, friendly service, though somewhat elevated prices.
We have stayed at two great resorts in Khao Lak. If your budget allows I’d highly recommend the Sarojin. While it only has a small area of beach access, the property makes up for it with its immaculate grounds, polished service and truly exceptional included breakfast. Rooms are luxurious and perfectly appointed. What stood out about this resort the most to me was the attention to detail in the service. Unfortunately, for our latest trip we were unable to secure a room at the Sarojin so we tried a brand new resort, The Little Shore, a new property of the Katathani group. Generally our preference is to stay at individually run properties but the price on this resort was reasonable and the beach access had us sold. I think prices may have been more reasonable due to the newness of the resort and lack of reviews- but our stay was wonderful. Service levels here are not up to the standard of the Sarojin but the staff were friendly and well intentioned. The resort’s greatest asset is its long beach front access; it was very convenient to pick a lounge chair for the day and take a dip in the Andaman sea whenever you desired. Our room had a beautiful sea view and all rooms have their own plunge pool. We loved being able to walk up to the main strip for dinner or drinks, something the Sarojin’s location doesn’t offer.
There are plenty of activities to keep you occupied in Khao Lak, I think it would be easy to spend a week here or more. We did one of the typical local tours with a visit to an Elephant sanctuary (please be careful with any of these tours, I’m extremely hesitant after a miserable experience in my 20s in Thailand and if anyone can chime in on research tips please do), turtle sanctuary, “little Amazon” (mangrove canoe trip), and a waterfall for a dip. Further afield, I highly recommend a trip to Khao Sok national park. This lake (the result of a hydroelectric dam) sits amongst mountaintops and couldn’t be more picturesque. I highly recommend Khao Sok Private Tours for a truly exceptional day. I don’t think there’s much time left before this park is discovered (hopefully not destroyed) by the mainstream.
Another day trip is to Phang Na bay and the islands it offers. Busy? yes, but worth the crowds if you can manage a private tour. Try to get to James Bond Island early before the big groups from Phuket show up.
On our most recent trip we traveled to the Surin Islands, famous for their snorkeling and Moken village of locals. We were not disappointed. The snorkeling was some of the best in recent memory and we spent hours at a number of different locations simply floating and holding hands admiring the abundance of color and life below. We have yet to visit the Simlian Islands but chose the Surin Islands as the boat ride is a litte longer (about 2 hours) and therefore the number of tourists less. It was well worth the extra money to have a private tour. Our boat ride to the islands was shared with a big tour company but upon arrival a private longtail boat was waiting for us and we departed with our guide for private snorkelling locations and lunch on a secluded private beach. Generally, if the budget allows, opt for the private tour, you won’t regret it.
If Thailand becomes an annual trip for us what other “hidden gems” do you recommend? Send me a message.
For us, Khao Lak is the perfect destination for a relaxing beach holiday with just enough to do to keep you occupied. While it’s hard to have a true “local” experience in Thailand, Khao Lak at least offers the opportunity to still find businesses frequented by locals and the opportunity to escape from the massive Phuket tourist machine.
Richard- It’s been a minute since I visited Thailand so this is a refreshing change. Khao Lak really echoes its beautiful cousin in terms of beauty and pristine-ness. There’s a brightness to your writing and it’s very warming.